Category Archives: Decor Fabric

All things Decor

Using Fabric for Wallpaper—Part I

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When choosing wall coverings for your home, remember that décor fabric can make excellent wall covering.

Paint, wallpaper and paneling are traditional ways to decorate interior walls, but you don’t have to be limited by these options. Fabric can also be used as wallpaper.

Using fabric for wallpaper is a stylish and simple way to coordinate your room décor. The same fabric can be used for curtains, pillows, comforters, and your walls.  Your design and color choices are virtually endless when you use fabric in this way.  Nearly any type of décor fabric, except sheer fabrics, can be used as wall covering.

Non-traditional upholstery fabrics, such as this Vintage Blue upholstery denim. can be used for wall coverings.

Fabric can be attached with starch to most painted walls without hurting the paint and removed when you desire. Apply the starch to the wall with a paint roller. Hang the fabric and smooth it out with a tool designed for smoothing wallpaper. Overlap the pieces of fabric about a half inch and hold the fabric in place with thumbtacks at the top and bottom until the starch dries.

Charming children’s prints such as this Covington Over the Moon fabric can make lovely wall coverings for the nursery.

You can also use adhesive molding at both the top and bottom of the fabric. Molding comes in many decorative styles. If you want to use heavier fabric for your walls, molding is an excellent addition because it will help hold the material in place.

In a painted room, consider an accent wall or a fabric border for a special touch.

Learn to Sew with a Friend

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Do want to teach yourself to sew but are having a hard time getting motivated to start?  Learning to sew along with a friend can you help you take the leap and also keep you both motivated.

The idea is to be each other’s cheerleader when the going seems rough. So, you can choose similar projects or completely different ones.

Simplicity pattern company has many great Learn-to-Sew patterns now available. These patterns give step-by-step instructions so even the most novice sewer will feel right at home with them.

Before beginning your project, make sure you have the basic notions on hand.
Absolute musts are thread, sewing needles (hand and machine), a good pair of scissors, straight pins, and a measuring tape.

All commercial sewing patterns specify what fabrics are suitable for the project. Patterns designed for beginner sewers use easy-to-sew fabrics.

A fabric is easy to sew when it cuts easily, does not ravel excessively, and is easy to guide through the machine without being jammed down into the sewing machine feed dogs. Woven cotton fabrics are the easiest fabrics to start with, and I always recommend them to beginners. Cotton fabrics recommended for quilting are perfect for many craft projects and garments; these attractive fabrics can be made into dresses, skirts, and shirts for all ages, as well as tote bags and other accessories. All-purpose thread and a size 14 sewing machine needle work well for cotton and cotton blend quilting weight fabrics.

Gingham and Amy Butler prints are perfect for beginning sewers.

Because most fabric shrinks and even fades a little when it is first washed, make sure to pre-shrink/pre-wash your material according to the manufacturer’s recommended care instructions before you begin cutting.  This step is especially important for garments and other items that will be frequently washed after being made. Making a garment without pre-shrinking can lead to a big disappointment the first time it’s washed if it shrinks and no longer fits.  That’s no way to encourage a new sewist!  Cotton fabrics should also be ironed after being pre-washed and dried.

After you and your friend have successfully completed a first project, share your ideas, what you learned, and what you would differently next time.  Then, pick the next project and carry on.  Tell us a story about your first sewing project in the comments below or post a photo on our Facebook page. We’d love to support you – and your friend!

Spruce Up the Patio Furniture

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It’s time to think about sprucing up that patio furniture in preparation for warmer weather. New cushions are an economical way to give outdoor seating a facelift.

Any cushion used outdoors needs to withstand getting wet, even if it will be used under a covered porch. Dampness from humidity and fog can be a problem in addition to rain. Outdoor cushions must dry quickly or they will mildew.

The sun is another factor to consider when choosing an outdoor fabric.  Sunlight can quickly fade regular fabrics, but outdoor fabrics such as Waverly’s Sun N Shade Collection  and P/K Lifestyles are especially designed to resist sun- and water-induced fading.

Waverly Bal Harbour Sun N Sha

In addition to outdoor fabric, special foam is available which will withstand the perils of the outdoors as well. Outdoor foam is sold in various thickness and lengths and can be cut to the size.

Outdoor cushion foam dries quickly and resists mold and mildew. Also known as marine foam, this cushion material is durable and easy to use.

P/K Lifestyles Langtry Cocoa

Cushions for patio furniture are made with the same techniques as those used to cover cushions for indoor furniture. A strong, sturdy upholstery zipper can be installed in outdoor cushion covers, so that they can be removed for easy cleaning. Keep in mind that some outdoor fabrics should not be washed in the machine and should be wiped by hand with water and mild soap; the manufacturer’s instructions provided in the description of each fabric give more details on the care needed to keep your outdoor fabric items looking great for years.

Fabric Wall Decor is Cool

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An assortment of Amy Butler fabrics.

Speaking of vintage, fabric wall décor periodically makes a comeback. These attractive Peace and Love Amy Butler wall hangings look like they stepped out of the 1960s, yet they are fresh, and oh so cool!

They are easy to make using this free PDF pattern from Amy Butler. What a great way to use beautiful Amy Butler prints.

These bold signs are made by making a frame of wooden stretcher strips and stretching fabric across  them. Because Amy Butler prints are lightweight woven cotton, they are too sheer to be used by themselves, so cotton canvas or duck is first attached across the stretcher frame strips to create the base of these wall hangings.  The patterns for each letter are printed out on sheets of computer paper; twenty sheets of paper are needed.

You will also need scissors, glue, all purpose thread, a craft knife, and a ruler.  Also, gather together a hammer and staple gun to assemble the frame and attach the fabric to the wood.  Ordinary household tools or crafts tools will do this job, but upholstery tools would be even better.

To assure a successful, pleasurable project, be sure to thoroughly read the PDF instructions before beginning.  Amy Butler and her team of creative designers have taken great pains to make sure that the pattern is accurate and easy to complete.  No previous experience is really needed.

This is such a fascinating project, you may wind up making other designs.  Fabric wall decor is popular and inexpensive.

Book Review–Sew Retro: A Stylish History of the Sewing Revolution

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If you love vintage sewing, Judi Ketteler’s Sew Retro:25 Vintage-Inspired Projects for the Modern Girl & A Stylish History of the Sewing Revolution is for you.

The book traces the history of sewing from the 1800s to today and features twenty-five vintage projects you are sure to love. The projects are all small and do-able for most, even beginning sewers. Included are a Victorian shawl and sewing basket, a flapper apron, cozy patchwork items inspired by the 1930s and 1940s, a 1950s inspired hostess apron, and a 1960s inspired not-so-mini mini skirt.

Classic Seersucker

When re-creating vintage looks you can choose classic fabrics such as seersucker, cotton lawn, poplin, batiste, and broadcloth. These classics now come in an amazing array of colors that seamstresses of past generations could only dream of.  The classic fabrics are easier to care for than ever, and they look fresh and stylish no matter which style you choose.

Scrumptious lawn makes lovely vintage fashions.

If you are re-creating fashions from the 1960s, you can choose modern knits or cotton classics. Cotton gauze is perfect for airy summer garments and gives 1960s looks a contemporary flare.  When working with gauze, use a #11 machine needle. Changing to a straight stitch needle plate is helpful, since this delicate cotton fabric can jam in the feed dogs if the needle hole in the machine plate is large.  If you don’t have a straight stitch plate, place tape over the front and back of the needle hole in the machine bed to make it smaller.

Cotton gauze makes cool vintage fashions.

 

How To Make Bolster Pillows–Part II

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Traditional, yet fresh. Gingham makes great bolster pillows for a window seat or bedroom.

Materials:

  • Bolster foam, 6” or 8” diameter, cut to the desired length. (a down bolster pillow form can also be used)
  • A yard of 45” or 54” fabric, for a 24” long pillow
  • Ribbon or decorative cord
  • Hand sewing needle
  • Thread to match
  • Thimble (optional, but it makes life easier for the finger that pushes the needle)
  • Sewing machine or serger (optional, the entire project can be made by hand)
Down bolster forms are durable and comfortable.
  1. Cut a rectangle piece of fabric about 6” longer than your pillow length and wide enough to wrap around the bolster foam and overlap slightly.
  2. Turn under ¼” on the edges of the rectangle and press. Turn under again and hem around the rectangle with a narrow hem. If you have a serger, you can overlock the edges, rather than turning them under and hemming them.
  3. Roll the finished rectangle around the bolster foam. Leave the same amount of fabric at each end.  Tack or slip stitch the overlapping edge.
  4. The ends can be finished in one of two ways. For a cheerful, casual look tie a ribbon around each end, making the pillow look something like a wrapped piece of candy. For a more formal look, roll the extra fabric under at each end. Tack and adorn with cord or ribbon if desired.

( Instructions are adapted from my article, Easy, Inexpensive Bolster Cushions from Bolster Foam, which originally appeared on Penny Pinching Grandma.)

How To Make Bolster Pillows – Part 1

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A simple to make bolster pillow with gathered ends. Lace and other embellishments can be added to give the pillow a unique look.

Bolster pillows are a stylish addition to your bed, sofa, or chairs. These cylindrical pillows can be made casual or luxurious, depending on the fabric you use to cover them.

Making a bolster pillow is not complicated, especially when you use bolster pillow forms.

Amy Butler–Delhi Blooms, Laurel Dots, Twilight Peony

Amy Butler cotton prints are ideal for the following method of making cushions. Lightweight upholstery and drapery fabrics are also appropriate for this method. Pillow ticking, which comes in many color combinations, makes economical, stylish cushions, suitable for traditional and contemporary décors.  Novelty fabrics, such as ribbon taffeta can also be used to make extraordinary and luxurious bolster pillows.

Ribbon taffeta can make beautiful pillows.

Bolster foam is available in two different diameters: 6″ and 8″.” It is sold in the 54” length which must be cut to make pillows. One 54” piece will make a number of pillows. Down bolster pillow forms are also available; they are very comfortable and come in  6″ and 9″ diameters and 22″ and 18″  lengths.

There are two basic ways to construct bolster pillows. One way is rather difficult for beginning sewers to handle; it requires cutting out fabric circles the diameter of the pillow, covering cording and installing a zipper. Another way is quicker and much easier. It can be done by people who have never sewn before.  Complete instructions are coming in my next post.

Things to Make Life Easier for Sewers

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Gingher Knife Edge Dressmaker Shears

People who sew deserve high quality tools.  Quality notions can help you sew more effectively and make the experience more enjoyable.

Dritz Threader and Magnifier is a great help when threading either hand sewing needles or machine sewing needles. A standard threader and a small magnifying glass will help you thread any needle more easily.

Spare your eyes.

Dritz Seam Ripper and Threader is a convenient combination.   Like it or not there are times when we simply must rip out a seam; it is handy to also have a threader with the ripper.

Dritz Fray Check Liquid Seam Sealant is perfect for fabrics that ravel easily.  Simply apply a drop or two to prevent the edge of fabric from raveling.

Stitch Witchery Fusible Bonding Web comes in three different weights and is ideal when you need to fuse something together instead of sewing it. It is also excellent for fuse basting   before sewing.

Quality scissors are a must for ease of cutting. If you do a lot of sewing a more expensive pair of sewing shears can be well worth the investment.  Save your best pair of shears for cutting out the fabric and trimming it. Use a less expensive pair for cutting thread and other small tasks.  Pinking shears are another must have if you do a lot of garment sewing.  Pinking the edge of seam allowances is a classic, professional looking edge-finish that prevents raveling and is easy to do.

Book Review–The Lampshade Lady’s Guide to Lighting Up Your Life: 50 Custom Lampshades and Lamps

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In my previous post I gave you simple instructions for covering an existing lampshade. Judy Lake and Kathleen Hackett, the authors of The Lampshade Lady’s Guide to Lighting Up Your Life, go much beyond a simple tutorial and provide detailed, well-illustrated instructions for making lampshades of all shapes. They even give instructions on lamp making.

This book is likely one of the most complete guides to lampshade making now available. Every shape of lampshade is covered and each shape has its own name; I had no idea! The authors explain how to laminate lampshades as well as how to make ones in which the fabric is left in its original condition.

Bold prins make excellent shades for accent lamps.

Cotton and linen fabrics work best for laminated lampshades.

Lake and Hackett also give tips on picking the appropriate colors and print size for the lampshade you want to make.  If you want a lamp for reading, they suggest using warm shades such as red or orange for the shade, while if the lamp will  be used only as an accent light, darker color shades are suitable.

If you are making a small lampshade, the authors say you should choose a smaller print or a solid color. If you are making a larger lampshade, a larger print is perfectly fine. If you simply love the motifs on a large print, but must have a smaller lampshade, Lake and Hackett suggest cutting out the motifs and using them as separate panel pieces on the shade.

Broadcloth makes excellent lampshades.

If the idea of making lampshades for a hobby intrigues you, get this book. You will be well served by the extensive information.

How To Cover Lampshades with Fabric

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Making custom, fabric-covered lampshades to match your decor is an easy way to add personal style to your home.

Light and medium weight drapery fabrics are ideal for this type of project. A fabric that you love from Braemore, Covington, Laura Ashley, P. Kaufmann, Robert Allen Designs, or Waverly is sure to fit the bill.

This Covington Bennithport fabric is one of thousands of drapery fabrics suitable for covering lampshades.

Instructions for covering a round lampshade

Materials:

  • Ready-made lampshade (can be used or new)
  • Fabric
  • Large sheet of plain paper to make a pattern (brown wrapping paper works well)
  • Pencil
  • Hot glue gun or fabric adhesive
  • Braid (optional)
  • Scissors

1. Wrap the paper around the shade securely and trace the top and bottom shape. Cut the pattern, including ½ inch seam allowance.

2. Use the pattern to cut out your fabric.

3. Place the shade on your fabric with the seam allowance evenly overhanging on the sides. Overlap the fabric ends at the shade’s back seam. Apply a thin strip of glue inside the shade’s top rim. Carefully fold the seam allowance over and smooth in place. Repeat for the bottom rim. Take your time and make sure that the fabric is taut and not wrinkled. Glue the back seam as well, with the seam allowances neatly folded under.

4. If you wish, glue braid or beaded trim at the top and bottom of the shade. Allow all parts to dry before placing on your lamp.

Robert Allen @ Home–Tea Jamboree Porcelain. This charming novelty print would look right at home on a lampshade for your breakfast nook, kitchen, or sewing room.