Sewing Glossary—B is for Baste (part I)

Baste: This basic sewing technique is used to hold fabric together temporarily so that the garment can be tried on and fitted or to hold the fabric pieces together while they are being stitched on the sewing machine. Basting stitches are long and loose so that they can be easily removed. Basting can be done by hand or machine. Some people like to pin baste rather than use a basting stitch. Special basting glue sticks come in handy for certain projects.

Backing: The lining of a quilt or of a vest, etc.

Batting: Cotton and polyester batting comes in various lofts (thicknesses) and is used for quilts.

Backstitch: Machine sewn seams can be locked at the beginning and the end, by sewing a few stitches and then reverse stitching for a few stitches. This is called backstitching. There is also a hand backstitch which is used for mending and where secure hand sewing is needed.

Bar stitch: A close machine stitch sewn horizontally by adjusting the machine. Bar stitches are used to at the top and bottom of buttonholes and to tack belt loops in place. A sewing machine with the automatic buttonhole feature will make bar tacks at the top and bottom of the buttonhole.

Ballpoint needle: Ballpoint sewing machine needles have a rounded point so they won’t snag fabric. They are used for knits and other easily snagged fabrics.

Bias: The bias runs diagonally across the cross grain of a fabric. Cutting fabric on the bias rather than with the grain, allows it to stretch. Binding may be cut on the bias to give it extra “give.” Bias-cut binding will fit more smoothly around curves.

Binding: Seam binding is used to encase raw edges. Commercial binding is readily available or you can make your own.

Blanket Stitch: An overcast stitch used to finish edges. It can be done by machine or by hand.

Sewing a Hem: the basics–part I

Sewing a hem: the basics—part I

Sewing a hem is not complicated, but it does take patience. Marking and turning up a dress or skirt hem is the time consuming part of hem sewing. Precise marking makes the difference between an uneven hem that detracts from your garment and a professional looking finish that adds to the piece’s overall look.

To mark the hem of a skirt or dress, have a friend help you. Try on the garment wearing the undergarments that you will wear with it, since they do make a difference in the way the garment fits and the way it hangs. Have your friend mark the distance from the floor to your finished hem length, using a yardstick or a specially designed hem marker. Straight pins placed parallel to the floor at 2 or 3 inch intervals give an accurate marking; place the pins around the entire length of the skirt. If you must do this by yourself, there is a special device on a stand which marks the hemline using a hand operated bulb with blows powered chalk.

The next step is to press the hem into place. Turn your garment wrong side out and put it on your ironing board or another flat padded surface. Turn the garment up along the marked line. Match each seamline and put a pin at right angle through both layers of fabric. Continue this way all around the hem, placing the pins about 1” or 1 ½” If the fabric is not slippery you can space the pins wider apart. Press the hem in place, using the appropriate iron setting for your fabric. Now you are ready to sew your hem.