Tag Archives: laying out pattern

Learning to Sew–What is a Napped Pattern Layout?

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When you are first learning to sew many things about ready-made sewing patterns can seem confusing.   For instance, what is this fuss about laying the pattern out according to the nap?

Napped fabrics are those that have texture, pile, or are shiny. The color of napped fabric can appear a different shade when looked at from a different direction.  For this reason napped fabrics must be laid out and cut in one direction.  The napped pattern layout shows all the tops of all the pieces facing in the same direction; a napped pattern layout will take more fabric, so plan accordingly.

How do you tell which way the nap is running?

When you stroke a pile fabric in the direction of the nap it will feel smoother; the color will also be lighter.   Velvet or velveteen fabrics look best if you lay them out with the nap running up; this shows off their richest shade.  On the other hand, suede cloth, corduroy, and deep pile fabric wear best if cut with the nap running down.

It is usually easy to determine the nap of one way designs.  Most have an obvious top and bottom.

Shiny fabrics, like satin, and some knits reflect the light differently from each lengthwise direction.  Just lay them out in the direction you like best.

Learning to Sew–laying out the pattern (part II)

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When you are first learning to lay out patterns you will find it easier to lay the pieces in a precise order.

 

  • Lay out the large pieces first.
  • Start with the pieces that go on the fold.
  • Make sure the grainline arrow is following grainline.  Pin through the arrow at both ends and then pin around the edge of the pattern, inside the cutting line or foldline.  Pin the corners first, placing the pins diagonally.
  • Pin the edges of the piece with the pins running parallel to the edge.  Don’t let any pins stick over the edge, because this will interfere with cutting the fabric.
  • Now pin the smaller pattern pieces in the same fashion.
  • Pin through all layers of fabric, but be careful not to pick up a large amount of fabric or pattern.

Learning to Sew–laying out the pattern (part I)

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Many sewers find laying the pattern out and cutting it the most tedious parts of sewing; I am one of them.  The pattern and fabric have to be prepared and it can be time consuming.  It is more fun to start sewing your project, because then you begin to see what it will look like when finished.  Yet, carefully laying out the pattern is very important for the final success of your project.

 

Prepare the pattern:

  • Cut the pattern out.
  • Press the wrinkles out of the pattern with an iron on low.  I generally heat my iron and then turn it off before pressing the paper.

 

Prepare the fabric:

 

  • Most fabrics should be preshrunk before cutting.
  • You can either wash your fabric with detergent the way you intend to wash the garment once it is finished or you can simply rinse out the fabric in water at a suitable temperature, without the soap.
  • Some fabrics are preshrunk and don’t need this treatment.
  • If you are making an item, such as a purse or dufflebag that won’t be worn and will seldom be washed, you may preshrink the fabric by steam pressing it, instead of washing it.

No Room to Sew–the Cutting Table Dilemma

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No room to Sew—the Cutting Table Dilemma

One of the greatest obstacles many sewers face is where to cut out their fabric. A special table for cutting only is great. I’d love to be able to lay out my fabric and then come back to it at a latter time, but I don’t have the spare space to do so. I use my dining room table to cut on and while currently no one eats on it but me, I really don’t like to have it occupied by fabric for days at a time.

This is a perennial problem for many sewers and I must say I don’t have any great, magical solutions. Some people lay out their pattern on the bed, but unless you have a spare bed this even more in the way than on the table. Plus, it’s hard on the back.

Speaking of which, you can layout your fabric on the floor and cut it out—a sort of sewer’s aerobics. I saw my great-grandmother do it when she was in her eighties, but cutting out a detailed pattern or one with a lot pieces this way is difficult.

Buying a good cutting board can help, although it doesn’t solve the problem of having to either pick up your fabric anytime you need the area for something else or cutting it out all at one time. I use a large, folding cutting board made out of extra sturdy cardboard. Because it is so sturdy, it expands the cutting space of my table.

Of course one way to solve to problem of having to pick up your project before you have finished cutting it out, is better time management. If I could figure out how to block out enough time to cut the project all in one sitting, I’d solve the problem of putting it away only to have to lay it out again. More on time management later; it is something I really need to get a handle on.