Learning to Sew–Making your own bias tape, Part I

Many projects, such as the pillowcase dresses recommended by Little Dresses for Africa, use bias tape. Bias tape can be used to finish necklines, sleeves, and jacket edges. It is a neat finish for placemats, blankets, small quilts, and many other projects. While you can buy ready-made bias tape in a variety of colors and widths, it is relatively simple to learn to make your own.

When you make your own bias tape you can match your project’s colors exactly and you can add a stylish touch by binding a project in a contrasting print. Making bias tape does take patience and so I recommend waiting until you are past the beginning sewer’s level before you try to make your first bias tape.

Bias tape is called bias because it is cut on the bias—the cross-grain of the fabric. This gives it more ‘give’ or stretch; you can sew bias tape around a curve.

Michigan Surgeon Starts Sewing School

What do you do if your daughter wants to learn to sew so she can someday become a fashion designer, but there no classes in your area? If you are like Dr. Sandra Howell you start your own sewing school. Dr. Howell, a surgeon who specializes in treating breast cancer, decided that if her daughter was having difficult finding quality sewing instruction, others in the area might be in the same predicament. Wanting to benefit the entire community, Howell purchased a building and began looking for sewing instructors.

She found Shannon Hubbard who is in her fourth year of studying apparel and design at Central Michigan University and Elizabeth Soderquist, who once owed Elegant Bridal, a shop in Mt. Pleasant. The newly opened Dream Key Design Academy in Mt. Pleasant, Michigan is offering sewing classes to the community and plans to expand to offer design courses.

Covering a Button–an illustrated tutorial

In July I had encouraged you to try covering your own buttons. At last I have a tutorial actually showing you how to cover buttons.

First cut an appropriate size circle out of your fabric. Dritz now makes it easier to get the correct size by including a pattern on the back of their package. I was relieved when I saw this feature, since getting the exact size circle without any extra fabric was always a little tricky for me; excess fabric make it difficult to snap the two button parts together, while too small of a circle means that the fabric can pull out.

Fabric circle, button parts, mold and pushing tool.
High Quality Photo

Now place the fabric circle right side down in the mold, being careful to center it. Place the button top, face down into the mold on top of the fabric, being careful that the fabric is even all around the edge. You may need to use the pusher. Fold the fabric neatly down into the back of the button top.

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Pushing fabric into mold.
High Quality Photo

Next place the button back on the button, making sure that all the fabric is underneath it. Using the pusher, push the two parts together. They should quickly snap together, unless the fabric is rather thick. Some fabrics are too thick to use this way.


Learn to Power Sew

Sewing expert Sandra Betzina’s website is a goldmine of sewing tips and fashion ideas. Learn sewing techniques with her web classes and enjoy the creations of other sewers at the Garment Galley where all are welcome to submit their creations for viewing. Discuss sewing with other sewing enthusiasts in the forum area.

Betzina designs for the Today’s Fit pattern line sold by Vogue. Check out some of her marvelous designs. My favorite is the pleated A-line blouse.

Power Sewing also features fabric stores across the country, including OnlineFabricStore.

Learning to Sew—Determining Buttonhole Size

Ready made patterns have the buttonhole size already determined, but sometimes you want to use another size button or cannot find the button size called for in the pattern.

Measure your button by wrapping twill tape or seam binding around the button’s widest point and pinning the tape together. The button width will be half of this measurement.

To determine your buttonhole length, add ⅛” to the button width. If your buttons are thick add a little more than ⅛” to the length.

Books on Making Children’s Clothes

Kids are so fun to sew for. Patterns from the standard pattern companies can make great children’s clothes, but many books offer helpful tips and a variety of patterns.

Here are group of books on sewing for children, which include patterns to cut out.

Making Children’s Clothes: 25 Stylish Step-by-step Sewing Projects for 0-5 Years by Emma Hardy

Absolutely A-Line: 1 Easy Pattern = 26 Adorable Dresses for Girls by Wendi Gratz

Sewing Clothes Kids Love: Sewing Patterns and Instructions for Boys’ and Girls’ Outfits by Nancy Langdon and Sabine Pollehn.

My Sewing Library

I think almost every sewer has some favorite sewing books. I taught myself to sew, so I relied heavily on books. Here are some of my favorites:

Simplicity Sewing Book—Sewing manuals have come a long way since I first bought this book back in the early 1980s, but it is still one of my standbys.

From the Singer Reference Library

Sewing for Style—this book has tons of great tips on how to handle those important details: collars, pockets, yokes, sleeves, hems and so on.

Timesaving Sewing—a lifesaver, this book teaches you how to sew quickly, yet still produce fabulous garments and home décor items.

Learning to Sew: Covering Buttons

Buttons are not difficult to cover. Covered buttons can add a stylish finishing touch to a garment or to a piece of upholstered furniture.

Covered button kits are available at many fabric stores. You simply cut the fabric in the correct size circle and press it into the mold which comes with the kit. Put the button form on the fabric. Gather the fabric neatly into the back of the button; insert the shank and snap it in place using the tool you are given. Voile, you have a tailored, covered button which matches your project.

Learning to Sew—Lining pants and skirts (part II)

Lining a skirt or pair of pants is easy, but there are few tricks that will help you create a professional lining.

Basic steps to inserting a skirt lining

1. After you have sewn all the skirt seams except for attaching the waistband, sew your lining together at the sides. Leave the seam open at a zipper and press it open. Now slip your lining over the skirt with the wrong sides together. Match the seams. At the waist seamline, machine baste the skirt and lining together. At the zipper edge fold the lining under.

2. Pin the lining to the zipper tape and slipstitch it in place. This is very important, because you don’t want your lining to be caught in the zipper.

3. Now apply the skirt waistband as instructed in your pattern. Finish the garment by hemming the skirt and hemming the lining so that it is an inch shorter than the skirt.

You can hem the lining either by hand or by machine depending on the look you want. The same goes for the skirt itself.

Learning to Sew—Choosing a lining material

Slick, lightweight fabrics make the best linings for most skirt, pants, and jacket projects. Flannels and light fleeces can be appropriate when you want to add warmth to a garment, like a coat or heavy jacket.

The most important consideration when choosing a lining fabric is to match its care requirements to those of the garment fabric. If your garment fabric is washable, your lining fabric should be too. If your garment fabric is dry clean only, then choose a dry clean only lining fabric.

Beautiful, silky charmeuse is wonderful lining fabric. It is ideal for free-flowing garments, such as gored, a-line skirts. Charmeuse comes in both 100% polyester and in natural silks.

Habutae fabrics are luxurious, yet 100% polyester Habutae is washable, practical and inexpensive. Habutae fabrics are great linings for garments made of sheer fabrics.

Satin fabrics can be wonderful linings and come in various weights. Choose a lighter weight if your garment fabric is fairly heavy. Heavier weight satin can be used for a lining if the garment fabric needs more body.