Learning to Sew–matching plaids and stripes (part II)

If you want a mirror image effect, with the plaids going in opposite directions from the center of the garment, the pattern you choose needs a center front and back seam or closure.  For this effect you will work with a single fabric layer.  The front and back pieces of the garment will be cut once and then turned over, marking side down and upside down from the way the first piece was cut.

 

When doing the mirror image effect with plaids, position the center front lines or center seams on the center of the dominant bar or group of bars.  Place the center of the sleeve on the main bar and cut one sleeve out; then reverse the sleeve pattern, turning it face down and in the opposite direction of the first sleeve.  Before cutting a sleeve, remember to match it to the side of the garment it will be going on.

 

Doing a mirror image effect does take extra time, but you’ll be pleased with the professional look.  To avoid frustration, be sure you have enough experience before trying a more challenging project such as this.

Learning to Sew–matching plaids and stripes (part I)

As I mentioned in my last post, plaids take the most planning in order to match them properly.  As you gain confidence and experience with sewing, you will enjoy challenges such as this.  Plaids and stripes are matched with the same technique.

Even plaids or stripes are easier to match than uneven plaids or stripes.  Even plaids or strips have the same design on both sides of the dominant bar or stripe.    Uneven plaids have a different arrangement on each side of the dominant bar or stripe.

Unless your fabric is brushed or napped you can use the without nap layout for even plaids or stripes.  Cutting only a single fabric layer at a time can be more accurate, but it you align the plaid design and pin the layers of fabric to keep them aligned, you can cut out two pieces at once.

If you are cutting out uneven plaids or stripes, use the with nap layout.   Decide if you want the uneven plaid to go around your garment in one direction or if you want the design to come out in opposite directions from the center of the garment—a mirror image effect.

Design in one direction

If you want the plaid to go around the garment in one direction, fold your fabric at the center of a dominant bar and lay out the pattern pieces that must be cut on the fold.  The other pieces should be cut from a single layer of fabric, so that you can see that design falls in identical places on each piece.  For items in which the front or  the back are made of two pattern pieces, you will reverse the pattern piece, placing it marking side up for one piece and then placing it marking side down to cut the other piece, but remember  that the top of the pattern piece should face the same direction for each part.  Make sure that the plaids are going in the same direction on both sleeves.