Seam: Where two sections of fabric are sewn together.

Seam allowance: Most commercial patterns have a seam allowance incorporated into them. The seam allowance is the distance between the line of stitching and the edge of the fabric. Most seam allowances are 5/8.”

Selvage: The finished edge of the fabric. Every fabric has two selvages, one on each side. Selvages usually do not fray, however if they are stiff you will not want to include them in your garment. Selvages can pucker when included in a seam allowance.

Separating zipper: Separating zippers come apart at the zipper stop. They are used in sporty jackets.

Serger: A sewing machine which trims the seam allowance and overlocks the edge so that it will not ravel. Sergers use three or four threads to make the seam.

Shank button: A button with a shank so that space is left between the fabric and the button. Shank buttons do not have holes that show on top.

Shrink: Becoming smaller when first washed or when washed in too hot of water.

Sizing: A fabric finish which makes the fabric crisp.

Rolled hems are an excellent choice for many delicate fabrics, such as tulle, which need a narrow hem; sewing one may seem difficult if you have not tried it before. Rolled hems are not difficult; you can learn how to sew a rolled hem which looks professional.

The quickest way to sew a rolled hem is on an overlock machine (serger). Set the stitch length between 0 mm and 3 mm. Setting the length at 0 will make a hem with a fine firm edge; if you want a soft, supple picot or scalloped edge set the length at 3 mm. If you want to cover the fabric edge, but not have too stiff of an edge, 2 mm works well. The 1 mm setting will give a satin stitch look and be fairly stiff.

Before beginning you may want to press a crease to mark the hem or mark it with disappearing ink. Accuracy the first time is very important when using a serger (overlock machine) since these machines trim the excess fabric as they sew.

When producing a rolled hem or other hem on the serger, you must carefully align the overlock knives with the hemline. Place you fabric right side up under the machine foot; this is important, because you want the hem to roll to the wrong side when finished. If this is first time you have ever sewn a hem on a serger, I strongly suggest that you practice first on several scrapes of fabric before sewing on your garment or other project. Practicing will also give you a chance to experiment with the different stitch lengths and see which suits your project the best. Soon you will master the art of sewing a professional-looking rolled hem.