Tag Archives: sew-in interfacing

Learning to Sew–What interfacing should I use?

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The first thing to remember when purchasing interfacing is to buy a type that will be compatible with your garment fabric.  A rule of thumb is that the interfacing should be a lighter color and a lighter weight than the fabric it is going to support.  Color is generally never a problem, because most material sold specifically for interfacing is white.

For very lightweight fabrics you can use batiste or organza as interfacing, rather than a fabric made specifically for interfacing.  These sheer fabrics will give the finished garment a soft effect and must be sewn-in.  Organdy can be used if you want a crisp effect and other lightweight sew-in or fusible interfacing may suitable, depending on your fabric type.  Remember very delicate fabrics will not stand the heat of fusing; sew-in interfacing should always be used for these fabrics.

Make sure you match the care types for your interfacing and fabric. A dry-clean only fabric requires an interfacing that will stand-up to dry-cleaning.  A washable fabric requires a washable interfacing.

Medium weight fabrics like poplin, denim, linen, flannel, gabardine, satin, chino, velour, double knit, and stretch terrycloth require a medium weight interfacing for a soft effect and lightweight canvas interfacing for a crisp effect.  Poplin, linen, gabardine, and linen can stand the heat required for fusible interfacing.  On velour, knit, satin, and terrycloth use sew-in interfacing.

Medium weight fusible or sew-in interfacing is a good choice for heavy weight fabrics like heavier gabardine, corduroy, tweed, and canvas if you want a soft effect.  For a crisp effect, chose medium or heavy canvas interfacing.

Some sewers preshrink their interfacing before using it by dunking in hot water and letting it air dry.  I have never done this with fusible interfacing and I don’t think it is really necessary.  However, if you are using a canvas interfacing or some fabric not specifically designed for interfacing it may be advisable to preshrink it.

Learning to Sew–basic facts about interfacing

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Learning to Sew— basic facts about interfacing

 

Interfacing is used in collars, lapels, yokes, button fronts, and purses to give needed body and firmness to a garment.  Interfacing can be fusible or sew-in; woven or non-woven.  There are several weights of interfacing, ranging from featherweight to stiff and heavy.   The type of interfacing you choose will affect the drape and overall appearance of your final garment, so it is important to understand something about interfacing before you buy it.

 

Fusible interfacing is convenient because you fuse it to the garment with the steam from your iron; no sewing needed.  However, fusible interfacing is unsuitable for some fabrics.  Delicate fabrics such as chiffons, sheers, seersucker, and light silks will melt or pucker if you attempt to fuse interfacing to them.  Fusible interfacing cannot be used with real leather, either.

 

There are several brands of interfacing.  One brand I really like is Pellon. Pellon makes all weights and types of interfacing.  Pellon interfacing is sold by the yard, but you can also purchase packaged interfacing.  When buying interfacing by the yard, remember to get the instructions for using it.  These will be wrapped around the bolt in a long plastic strip.  The salesperson who cuts the interfacing for you should also cut the instructions and put it with your purchase.  I prefer to buy my interfacing by the yard, that way I have a larger choice of weights and types. Although packaged interfacing is sometimes cheaper, it is sometimes an off brand and not as high of quality as that purchased off the bolt.