Tag Archives: sewing dictionary

Sewing Glossary–N is for nap

Posted on by
Reply

Nap: Certain fabrics, such as velvet, velveteen, and corduroy, have fuzz or pile which called the nap. Nap usually runs in one direction. Run your hand across the fabric and the nap may be dull when smoothed in one direction and shiny when smoothed in the opposite direction. Because of this tendency, it is important to cut all pieces of your pattern with the nap; a with the nap lay out is shown on the instruction sheet. For a different look, pieces with the nap going in opposite directions may be used.

Narrow hem: A narrow hem measures ¼ to ⅛”. Narrow hems are used in a variety of garments, such as blouses, shirts, slips, and other lingerie. Narrow hems are also used on household items, such as tablecloths, placemats, and napkins.

Needle: Both hand sewing needles and machine needles come in a variety of sizes and types. The needle used depends are the fabric being sewn and the look you are trying to achieve.

Notch: Inward curves are notched, meaning small wedges are cut out of the seam allowances at certain points. A notch also refers to the markings on a commercial pattern designed to help you match the fabric pieces together correctly. These types of notches may be cut outward, as shown on the pattern; some people prefer to simply make a small snip in the fabric, rather than using notches.

Notion: A sewing notion is anything other than the sewing machine or the fabric, which is used for sewing. Thread, buttons, elastic, and lace are notions and so are the tools used in sewing, such as pins, pin cushions, gauges, thimbles, needles, scissors, and so on.

Sewing Glossary–M is for mend

Posted on by
Reply

Machine embroidery: Embroidery (decorative stitching) can be done on a regular sewing machine using the satin stitch or short zig zag; freestyle embroidery is done by lowering the feed dogs, placing the fabric in an embroidery hoop, and manually guiding it. Many special embroidery sewing machines are now available and some very nice models which do both regular sewing and machine embroidery are reasonably priced.

Mend: Repairing a torn garment or sewing a seam which is coming unraveled.

Measuring tape: A measuring tape is used to take body measurements. Most measuring tapes have inches on one side and centimeters on the other side.

Miter: Corners of napkins, tablecloths, quilts, and so on are mitered. Sometimes garment corners are mitered. The technique make a diagonal seam from the corner’s point to the inside edge.

Muslin: A cotton, woven fabric which is used to make fitting shells, the backs of quilts, and in crafts.

Sewing Glossary–L is for lining

Posted on by
Reply

Lapped seam: This special seam can be useful for suede and leather garments. Lapped seams may also be used for small areas on woven or knit fabrics. When working with a non-woven fabric, you will trim the seam allowance of the upper section away. Place this edge over the underneath section, with the trimmed edge at the seamline. Use basting glue or double edge fusible tape to hold the sections in place. Edgestitch the two section s together. Another stitch line, ¼” away from the first may be sewn if you like. If you are working with a woven fabric or knit, press under the seam allowance of the upper section and lap it over the seam allowance of the lower section, then proceed as for non-wovens.

Lining: A fabric layer which lines the inside of a garment. Linings are used to give a garment body, to make a garment easier to put on and take off and sometimes to add warm. Very sheer fabrics may be lined for modesty or looks. Linings are usually made using the main pattern pieces, such as the front and back of a skirt. Many different kinds of fabrics are used for linings, but silk and satin-like fabrics are preferred for most garments.

Lapped zipper: A method by which the zipper is inserted with a lap of fabric over it. This method is sometimes used for dresses.

Lay out: The way the pattern is positioned on the fabric. Commercial pattern instructions show the way the pattern should be placed; once you gain experience in sewing you can alter this placement somewhat in order to save fabric, but the grainline placement must always be followed.

Liquid ravel preventer or sealant: A clear liquid placed the edge of fabrics especially prone to raveling to prevent them from doing so.

Lockstitch: Another method for securing the beginning and end of a line of machine stitches. Shorten the stitch length to 0 and stitch a few stitches. Reset to a normal stitch length and sew your seam. Shorten the stitch length to 0 at the end of the seam and take another few stitches.

Sewing Glossary–K is for knits, but don’t forget J

Posted on by
Reply

Jean jumper: This tool is a piece of plastic designed to help the sewing machine foot work over bulky seams such as those found in jeans.

Kimono sleeves: Kimono sleeves are cut in one piece with the garment front and back.

Knife pleats: Knife pleats are more commonly called straight pleats. Knife pleats all run in the same direction; your pattern will give detailed instructions on making the pleats.

Knits: Fabrics which are knitted rather than woven. Knits have more stretch than woven fabrics; some patterns are made especially for knits.

Sewing Glossary–I is for interfacing

Posted on by
1

Inseam: This term is important when measuring for the length of pants or slacks. The inseam runs from the crotch to the hem.

Interfacing: Interfacing is used to provide shape and body to cuffs, collars, facings, pockets, and sometimes to waistbands. Two types of commercial interfacing are available: fusible and sewn-in. Fusible interfacing is suitable for fabrics which can stand high heat, but it is not appropriate for the most delicate fabrics. Sewn-in interfacing is best for delicate fabrics; some tailored items also work better with sewn-in interfacing.

Invisible zipper: Special zipper which is virtually invisible when closed if applied properly. Invisible zippers are good for wedding gowns, evening gowns, and other special garments. An invisible zipper foot is used to insert invisible zippers.

Iron: A good iron is an important tool for the home sewer. Purchase one which you are comfortable handling. Many different models of irons in all price ranges are now available. Consider their features carefully before you buy.

Ironing: The term ironing means smoothing the fabric by running the iron back and forth over it. Ironing should not be confused with pressing. Pressing means pressing the iron down on the fabric to open up seams set the shape of part of the garment, and so on. When sewing, you will usually press the pieces under construction, rather than iron them.

Sewing Glossary–H is for hem

Posted on by
Reply

Ham: No, this not something for the dinner table. A sewing ham is also called a tailor’s ham or dressmaker’s ham. A sewing ham is a tightly stuffed form used while pressing to support curved areas and allow them to be shaped. Sleeves, darts, princess seams, and other curved areas are pressed on a ham. Hams look somewhat “ham” shaped, hence the name.

Hem: The bottom of skirts, pants, and dresses are hemmed. The fabric at the bottom or edge of the garment is turned up and under for a smooth finish.

Hong Kong finish: This very neat finish seems to have originated in couture shops in Hong Kong. The seam is enclosed with a bias binding.

Hook and eye closure: Excellent for lingerie and other applications where a barely noticeable closure is desired. A hook on one side of the garment fastens into the eye on the other side.

Sewing Glossary–G is for gusset

Posted on by
Reply

Gather: Gathering is both decorative and practical. Gathering is the bunching up of fabric so that a longer piece will fit an shorter piece. Skirts are gather on to the waistband. Some sleeves are gathered. Ruffles are formed by gathering.

Grading: Seams may need to be trimmed to eliminate bulk. Grading means trimming several layers of fabric in graduating widths. Holding the scissors at sideways angle can sometimes allow you to grade several layers at a time. The narrowest seam edge is made closest to the body.

Grain: The grain of the fabric runs parallel to the selvage (finished side edge). For most patterns it is important to lay them out with the grain . Commercial patterns have arrows showing the direction which they should run.

Gusset: Modern sewers rarely encounter gussets, but they were popular in the 1950s and before. A gusset is an extra piece of fabric sewn into the garment to allow more room or give. Dresses in the 1950s were sometimes made with gussets under the arm to allow greater freedom of moment. Today’s softer, more flowing fabrics seldom need such treatment.

Sewing Glossary–F is for facing

Posted on by
Reply

Sewing a hem on a free arm sewing machine.
High Quality Photo

Facing: Facings are fabric pieces sewn on the raw edge of the neck, armhole, or the closing edge of a blouse or shirt. Facings finish the raw edge and make the garment look neat. Commercial patterns have pieces for the facings your garment will need.

Fat quarter: Sounds like piece of chicken or barbeque ribs, doesn’t it? Actually a fat quarter is a ¼ yard of fabric about 18” x 22” sold to be used in quilts or craft projects.

Feed dogs: The feed dogs are the teeth located under the sewing machine plate. They move the fabric under the needle as it is sewn.

Finger pressing: Some times a seam can be pressed open simply by pressing your finger down it. A special finger pressing stick may also be used.

Finish: Most seams need to be finished so that they will look neat and not ravel. There are many ways of doing this: clean-finish, zigzagged, stitched and pinked, serged, Hong Kong finish, bound.

Flat felled seam: Often used on jeans and reversible garments. Sew a regular seam and press it to one-side. Trim the underneath seam allowance and turn under ¼” of the top seam allowance. Topstitch the turned under edge over the trimmed seam allowance.

Free arm: A sewing machine with an “arm” for the sewing bed; this allows garment parts such as sleeves to be more easily sewn. Some machines convert from a flat bed to a free arm.

French seam: A neat looking seam in which the raw edges are enclosed. It is used in couture sewing. A French seam actually requires two seams. First sew the fabric together with the wrong sides facing each other. Press the seam to one side and trim it to ⅛”. Fold the fabric together with the right sides facing each other and stitch ¼” away from the fold.

Fold line: The edge of a pattern which must be placed on the fold of the fabric. This technique is used to cut a large piece such as a skirt front or back. The pattern piece forms one half of the actual size of the garment piece; when the piece is placed on the fabric fold and cut as instructed it forms one large piece.

Foot: The foot of a machine is the part that presses down on the fabric and helps move it along. The standard sewing machine foot is called a presser foot; a presser foot is forked in front.

Fusible: Fusible refers to any fabric that contains heat-sensitive adhesive and can be glued to another fabric using the heat from an iron. Fusible interfacing is extremely useful. Fusible basting tape can be a quick way to baste a hem. Fusible stabilizer can be used to apply appliqués.

Sewing Glossary–E is for ease

Posted on by
Reply

Ease: One garment pattern piece, such as a sleeve, must sometimes be sewn to an area that is shorter than it is. Such pieces are eased, so that the resulting seam is even with no puckers or gathers. When a great deal of easing is required, a gathering stitch may be used. Sometimes it is helpful to shrink some fullness out of the garment piece by steam pressing the seam allowance before the seam is sewn.

Edgestitch: Stitching ⅛” to ¼” away from the edge of the fabric.

Embellish: Adding any decorative touch to any craft item or garment. Embellishments include appliqués, embroidery, charms, lace, and so on.

Entredeux: Two pieces of lace or ribbon joined with a piece of lightweight fabric or two ribbons joined with lace. A delicate touch to a wedding gown, special baby dress, or nightclothes.

Even feed foot: Special machine foot designed to feed heavy or unevenly matched fabrics evenly through the machine.

Sewing Glossary–D is for Dart

Posted on by
Reply

Darn: Repairing fabric which has been torn or developed a hole. This technique is generally done by hand on socks, but some sewing machines have darning stitches. The hole is filled up with stitches.

Dart: A v-shaped sewn fold, used to shape the bodice to the bust or the back of pants to the waist. Long double darts with points at each end are sometimes used to taper in the waist of a dress. Learning to sew darts correctly is an important sewing skill.

Directional pattern: Fabric pattern that runs in a definite direction.

Drape: The way the garment hangs and falls away from the body is described as the way it drapes. Formal window curtains are called drapes.

Duct Tape Double: A double (dress form) is a useful fitting tool, but commercial doubles can be expensive. A duct tape double is made out of duct tape. It conforms to the body’s contours because it is made by wrapping the tape around the body; the form is then cut and removed as one piece. We’ve seen this technique referred to as DTD.