OFS now carries a wonder selection of Coats & Clark thread and serger thread. A &E Maxi-lock serger thread is available on 3,000 yard cones in a variety of colors.
Having a stash of thread on hand is a great idea. Stock up on your favorite colors and be sure to include some neutral shades that go well with many colors.
Traditional pink shears and pinked fabric
Okay, so pinking shears aren’t an absolutely necessary tool when sewing, but they can certainly make life easier. For those of you unfamiliar with this tool, pinking shears have serrated edges and they leave your trimmed fabric with a decorative edge. This edge is more than just a nice looking touch. Pinking the edge of fabric prevents the fabric from raveling; pinking is a classic edge finish and many long-time sewers prefer it to any other finishing technique. Linens, cottons, and many other traditional fabrics can be neatly finished with pinking.
Pinking shears range in length from 7” to 10 ½”. In recent years, scalloping the edge of paper with special scissors has become popular; don’t confuse these decorative scissors with pinking shears designed to cut fabric. The decorative edge craft scissors are designed to cut paper, cardboard, and thin craft foam; they won’t work well with fabric. Choose dressmaker’s pinking shears if you are going to cut fabric with them. A sturdy pair of pinking shears may seem rather expensive, but they are a good investment. Pinking shears come in the traditional heavy weight models and in lighter weight models. If possible try out pinking shear models in the store before buying one; they should cut a nice, obviously pinked, even edge without chewing the fabric.
The type of fabric you are sewing determines the type of thread you need. Fortunately, polyester or cotton-covered polyester thread is suitable for all fabrics; it should always be used on synthetic fabrics. Polyester or cotton-covered polyester thread comes in several thicknesses. All-purpose polyester or cotton-covered polyester thread is suitable for general sewing. Choose extra fine for lighter weight fabrics. Upholstery (extra-strong) thread is available for carpets, upholstery, and hand sewing extra heavy fabrics. Quilting thread is available in cotton covered polyester.
Other types of thread include: mercerized cotton thread, silk thread, nylon thread, elastic thread, and metallic thread. Mercerized cotton thread is used for fabrics which have little stretch, such as cotton broadcloths, batistes, and calicos. Transparent nylon thread is sometimes used on sturdy fabrics like canvas. Metallic thread is used for decorative stitching, and elastic thread is used in machine shirring.
Choosing the correct thread is easy. For most projects you will use all-purpose polyester or cotton-covered polyester thread. Match your fabric’s color or use one shade darker than the fabric.
Basic sewing supplies—shears or scissors
If you are like me and have been sewing for years, you have probably have more sewing supplies that you know what to do with, but for those of you are just learning to sew, I thought I’d go over some basic supplies.
Shears—a good pair of sewing shears is essential when cutting out your pattern pieces. There are few things more frustrating to a sewer than attempting to cut out fabric with a pair of dull or inappropriate shears or scissors. Jagged fabric edges and frayed nerves are not the way the start a successful sewing project.
Many people don’t know it, but shears and scissors are not the same thing. Shears are designed for heavier work than scissors are; a pair of shears is six inches long or longer, while scissors are shorter and are designed for more lightweight tasks. The handles of shears feature a loop for your thumb and a larger, elongated loop for your fingers; scissors have two loops of the same size.
If you not going to do a lot of sewing and a just want a general pair of shears, the lightweight, inexpensive shears with plastic handles which often come in ready-made sewing supply kits will do a good job for awhile. These are especially good with cotton fabrics. However, if you are really getting into sewing and want to cut out delicate sheers, slippery silks, and heavy drapery/upholstery fabric I recommend investing in a good pair of all purpose sewing shears. Shears or scissors of stainless steel or titanium provide years of service.
Bent handle dressmaker shears can be a sewer’s best friend. They let the cutting blades rest on your cutting surface so that you don’t have to lift the fabric from the table. Lifting the fabric can result in a less than accurate line. Heavy duty shears are best if you want to cut leather, or heavy upholstery or drapery fabric.
You’ll need other supplies as well. Although you can use weights to hold your pattern to the fabric, I prefer the tried and true method of straight pins. Straight pins are an essential supply even if you use weights when cutting out the fabric; pin basting saves time over hand basting.
Straight pins are sold in three head styles and several lengths. The standard dressmaker pin has a small nub for the head. Pins with t-heads and with colorful plastic or glass ball heads are also available. If you are going to do pressing or machine sewing over pins, use all metal pins. Pins with plastic or glass heads are great when you really need to see the pins, but the plastic will melt if exposed to the heat of an iron and the larger heads can sometimes interfere with machine sewing.
A package of standard dressmaker pins, 1 ¼” long will cover most of your sewing needs. Pin sizes range from ½” to 2”. When working with knits it is best to use ball point dressmaker pins, which will not prick the fabric as easily as the standard points do.
A standard tomato-shaped pin cushion works well, but pin cushions are available in all different fun shapes. Magnetic pin holders are neat and have an added plus. If you drop a lot of pins on the floor other work surface, simply use the magnetic pin holder to “sweep” them up; they cling to the magnet and make your job easier.
Magnetic pin cushions are handy
Archeologists have found bone needles in some the oldest known sites of human habitation. Today’s needles come in a variety of specialized styles and lengths. Sharps are best for hand sewing. As the name implies. sharps have a very sharp point. Sharps are a medium length needle and range from size 1 to size 10. Size 1 is the largest in diameter and the longest, while size 10 is short and fine. The size you choose depends on the weight of your fabric and on your own preference. Thin, delicate fabrics do best with a thinner, shorter needle. Choose a needle that passes through your fabric easily and that you feel comfortable working with.
Sewing machine needles also come in several sizes and types. American sewing machine needle sizes range from 8 to 19. Sizing in machine needles is just the opposite of hand needles; with machine needles, the smallest number indicates the thinnest needle. Most fabrics and projects take a size 14 machine needle. Delicate fabrics may need a size 9 needle and heavy fabrics like canvas, corduroy, denim, and upholstery fabric do better with size 16, or 18. Only the heaviest fabrics require a size 19 needle. In Europe, machine needle sizes range from 60 to 120, with 60 being the American size 8 and 120 being the American size 19. Standard sewing machine needles are sharps; if you are working with knits or some other delicate fabric, it is best to use ball-point machine needles, which will not prick the fabric as easily.
A good thimble that fits your pushing finger is also a must if you do a lot of hand sewing. Thimbles not only protect your finger, they help you push the needle through heavy fabric or several layers. Thimbles come in plastic, metal, and even porcelain; the porcelain ones are generally decorative and more for display than use. A standard thimble can work well, but many people prefer the open styles and other variations sold for quilters.