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Charmeuse fabric has long been used for stage and costuming applications that require a lightweight, elegant and luxurious flavor. Charmeuse fabric, also commonly referred to as “Satin Silk”, is a shiny, thin, and very smooth fabric that drapes beautifully. While not used all that much in stage applications, costuming departments can take full advantage of the beauty of this, sometimes tenacious, fabric. Although the fabric can be quite tedious to work with and even to care for, when used properly, charmeuse can be beautifully applied to a variety of stage and costuming needs.
Charmeuse fabric, like its counterpart satin fabric, is a reversible material with a satin weave. The fabric has a shiny and a dull side. This reversibility is achieved by weaving the threads in such a way that the warp threads cross over three or more of the weft threads. This is what is referred to as the satin weave. Although charmeuse fabric has a satin weave, it differs from plain satin fabric because it is smoother and much lighter in weight.
The loftiness and airy feel of charmeuse fabric makes it well suited for the creation of lingerie and “silk” blouses by the costume designer. The main application of the fabric is the lining of costumes such as suit jackets, ties and even the creation of men’s boxer shorts. Some evening gowns can be created using charmeuse, however the fabric doesn’t hold its shape and therefore is more suited to slinky, fluid types of costumes. Used on the bias, the fabric flows beautifully, which is stunning to observe in an evening gown used in a scene featuring a dance routine.
Charmeuse fabric can be a bit of a challenge to work with and should be used by more experienced costume designers. The fabric is not recommend for beginners, or the faint of heart, because it is extremely slippery and difficult to control while manipulating through the machine. Less experienced costumers will find that the fabric tends to pucker and feed unevenly through the machine. Some of these difficulties can be overcome by using a shorter stitch length and a finer thread. More frequent pinning of the pieces together is, unfortunately, not a viable remedy though, because the fabric tends to permanently show the holes created by the pins.
Cotton blended charmeuse fabrics are occasionally available and are easier to work with and care for. The added cotton fiber creates a less lustrous fabric than the true silk charmeuse fabric, but a more stable one. Additionally, the cotton fibers promote moisture wicking and fabric breathability which makes for happier stage performers any time.
The care of charmeuse fabric is another consideration for stage managers and costume designers when selecting the right fabric for the task at hand. Charmeuse can be hand washed with cold water and mild soap. It should be laid flat to dry. Clothespins should be avoided as they will leave marks on the fabric. The fabric tears easily, especially when wet, so the best way of cleaning a charmeuse dress or gown is by dry cleaning. Charmeus fabric can also snag easily, so greater care is needed during wear to ensure that the costumes last for the run of the show.
Charmeuse fabric holds a unique place in stage and costuming applications. There is no other fabric that is quite so beautiful and drapes quite as well. Charmeuse fabric can be a tricky fabric to work with for stage production and costume design. However, with a little patience and practice the rewards of the resulting flowing, elegant costumes and stage elements are well worth the effort invested.
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