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Chiffon fabric is a lightweight, sheer, semi-transparent material that has elegant draping qualities that make it a perfect addition to the stage and costuming design toolbox. The weave, color options, and versatility of chiffon fabric allow the costume designer and stage manager to create elaborate stage settings and costumes with an irresistible illusion of intrigue.
The sheer, semi-transparent appearance of chiffon fabric is achieved by the way in which it is woven. Chiffon is a “plain-woven” fabric, which is the most simple of the three basic types of textile weaves. Plain weave is also known as "tabby weave" or "taffeta weave." Chiffon fabric for stage and costume applications is available in a balanced plain weave, in which the fabric has an overall even checkerboard texture or in a basket weave variation, in which the fabric has an unbalanced texture resembling a woven basket.
Even though chiffon fabric has a light and airy feel to it, it is actually somewhat rough to the touch, surprisingly hardwearing and strong. The plain or tabby weave of chiffon cloth gives the fabric some stretch as well as some transparent traits similar to a fine net or mesh. These qualities make it a good choice for everything in the theater from evening gowns in costuming, to pillow slipcovers for stage props.
The term chiffon comes from the French word for cloth or rag. Being anything but a rag, chiffon fabrics for the stage and costuming are evenly woven fabrics made from cotton, silk or even synthetic fibers. The most expensive chiffon fabric on the market today is made from silk. Silk chiffon can be easily dyed to suit any costume designer’s or stage manager’s needs, but with the wide range of color choices and prints available, dying chiffon is almost unnecessary. Polyester chiffon fabrics prove the most difficult to dye.
Chiffon fabric is most frequently used in costuming to create overlays for evening gowns, which give the gowns a graceful drape and flow. Ice skater and belly dancer costumes also take advantage of the flowing characteristics of chiffon. Costume designers most often make good use of chiffon in the creation of blouses, scarves, and especially lingerie.
Elegant, soft, and buttery are the terms that best describe chiffon fabric, but the stage manager will also want to remember spooky, concealed and clandestine when thinking of the uses for this versatile fabric. Stage crews will be more inclined to use chiffon fabric for sheer draperies, upholstery applications and anywhere a puffy, cloud like prop is required.
Chiffon can be tenacious to work with at times because of it’s lofty and slick qualities. When cut, it’s edges fray very easily and therefore French seams are highly recommended when sewing garments. Additionally, chiffon fabrics must be gently hand washed or dry-cleaned and therefore are considered luxury fabrics.
With its sheer, semi-transparent qualities and it’s seemingly endless color selections chiffon fabric for costuming is a fabric that defies substitution when the costume designer is attempting to create a flowing, elegant look. Likewise, chiffon material is ideal for the stage manager trying to create a feel of mystery and suspense. Light and fluffy like the meringue on a Lemon chiffon pie; chiffon fabric for the stage and costume departments of any theater is a delicious choice when trying to create a feeling of intrigue, mystery, or a delicate atmosphere for their audience.
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