How to Sew a French Seam & Mock French Seam

A French seam, which is one of the most common seams found in apparel, can be used in pants, shirts, unlined bags, and dresses.

The mock French seam is used for similar purposes, but works better around curves than the French seam.




French Seam

Sew the pieces of your project together with a 1/8th inch seam allowance, and press the seam to one side. Fold in half with the seam on the inside, and iron again.

Stitch down the fold with a 1/2 inch seam allowance, make sure to back stitch at the start and end.

Fold open and press the seam to one side. This completes the French seam.

Mock French Seam

After stitching your pieces together, iron the seam open. Then, iron each edge over 1/8th inch towards the middle.

Press the middle together to one side. Fold the piece in half with the seam on the outside and iron.

Stitch along the fold with a 1/8th inch seam allowance. Unfold the piece and iron the seam to one side. The Mock French seam is now complete.

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