Fabric
ABC’s of Decorating: “D” is in the details
You have heard it time and time again. The details make all the difference in everything around us. The details are what separates an ordinary piece, be it clothing, furniture, writing etc., from something extraordinary. In interior design, details important details come in many forms.
- Trim can turn an everyday drapery panel into an eye popping focal point in a room. Something as simple as a band of contrasting color along the hem can have the same effect as beaded tassel fringe with matching tiebacks. It just depends on your personal decorating style.
- An ordinary photograph or amateur painting can look like a million bucks when properly framed and matted. Be sure to include details such as double matting, a gold filet or fabric mats.
- Architectural details such as crown molding, picture railing or wainscoting will give an ordinary room a sense of history and importance.
- Upholstered furniture is more interesting when details such as contrast welting, nailhead trim or button tufting are added.
A candle in the guest bath, fresh flowers on the breakfast room table, a stack of books on the coffee table, family photos on the entryway console, beautiful lighting, a comfortable furniture arrangement—these are all small details that make your home special.
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Sewing Glossary–L is for lining
Lapped seam: This special seam can be useful for suede and leather garments. Lapped seams may also be used for small areas on woven or knit fabrics. When working with a non-woven fabric, you will trim the seam allowance of the upper section away. Place this edge over the underneath section, with the trimmed edge at the seamline. Use basting glue or double edge fusible tape to hold the sections in place. Edgestitch the two section s together. Another stitch line, ¼” away from the first may be sewn if you like. If you are working with a woven fabric or knit, press under the seam allowance of the upper section and lap it over the seam allowance of the lower section, then proceed as for non-wovens.
Lining: A fabric layer which lines the inside of a garment. Linings are used to give a garment body, to make a garment easier to put on and take off and sometimes to add warm. Very sheer fabrics may be lined for modesty or looks. Linings are usually made using the main pattern pieces, such as the front and back of a skirt. Many different kinds of fabrics are used for linings, but silk and satin-like fabrics are preferred for most garments.
Lapped zipper: A method by which the zipper is inserted with a lap of fabric over it. This method is sometimes used for dresses.
Lay out: The way the pattern is positioned on the fabric. Commercial pattern instructions show the way the pattern should be placed; once you gain experience in sewing you can alter this placement somewhat in order to save fabric, but the grainline placement must always be followed.
Liquid ravel preventer or sealant: A clear liquid placed the edge of fabrics especially prone to raveling to prevent them from doing so.
Lockstitch: Another method for securing the beginning and end of a line of machine stitches. Shorten the stitch length to 0 and stitch a few stitches. Reset to a normal stitch length and sew your seam. Shorten the stitch length to 0 at the end of the seam and take another few stitches.
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Sewing Glossary–K is for knits, but don’t forget J
Jean jumper: This tool is a piece of plastic designed to help the sewing machine foot work over bulky seams such as those found in jeans.
Kimono sleeves: Kimono sleeves are cut in one piece with the garment front and back.
Knife pleats: Knife pleats are more commonly called straight pleats. Knife pleats all run in the same direction; your pattern will give detailed instructions on making the pleats.
Knits: Fabrics which are knitted rather than woven. Knits have more stretch than woven fabrics; some patterns are made especially for knits.
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Home Decor: Shabby Chic is baaack!!
Several months ago I wrote a post on the design elements of Shabby Chic. This style has been popular for many years but had fallen out of favor a bit. Well, it’s back but in a less feminine and more sophisticated way.
Like many businesses around the globe, Rachel Ashwell, the original founder of Shabby Chic, became a victim of the economy. In order to save her floundering company she has reinvented the idea of shabby chic design and made it more appealing to both men and women by offering rustic yet sophisticated decorating ideas. Elements of shabby chic today include:
- Rustic furniture. Gone are the distressed white pieces so familiar to the original shabby chic design. Today’s furniture is weathered and beaten and shows signs of use. Finishes are rough and very often gray in color. Anything reclaimed or repurposed will fit into this category.
- The “girly” pink and green floral fabrics have been replaced by luxurious faded velvet or rough natural burlap and linen. White slipcovers are still a staple but appear on more structured furniture and not quite so sloppy.
- While feminine pink colors are still part of the design plan they are strengthened by other colors that include soft aqua and celadon green and if you look closely you just might spot a bright fuchsia stripe.
- Natural fibers are important to this look and appear in raffia, cane and rattan. Unpainted plaster walls are a nice contrast to gleaming stainless steel appliances in a kitchen any man would be happy to own.
It appears that Shabby Chic design has grown up and caught up with the sophisticated, back to basics style that both men and women are seeking today.
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Sewing Glossary–I is for interfacing
Inseam: This term is important when measuring for the length of pants or slacks. The inseam runs from the crotch to the hem.
Interfacing: Interfacing is used to provide shape and body to cuffs, collars, facings, pockets, and sometimes to waistbands. Two types of commercial interfacing are available: fusible and sewn-in. Fusible interfacing is suitable for fabrics which can stand high heat, but it is not appropriate for the most delicate fabrics. Sewn-in interfacing is best for delicate fabrics; some tailored items also work better with sewn-in interfacing.
Invisible zipper: Special zipper which is virtually invisible when closed if applied properly. Invisible zippers are good for wedding gowns, evening gowns, and other special garments. An invisible zipper foot is used to insert invisible zippers.
Iron: A good iron is an important tool for the home sewer. Purchase one which you are comfortable handling. Many different models of irons in all price ranges are now available. Consider their features carefully before you buy.
Ironing: The term ironing means smoothing the fabric by running the iron back and forth over it. Ironing should not be confused with pressing. Pressing means pressing the iron down on the fabric to open up seams set the shape of part of the garment, and so on. When sewing, you will usually press the pieces under construction, rather than iron them.
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Apparel Fabric
Covering a Button–an illustrated tutorial
In July I had encouraged you to try covering your own buttons. At last I have a tutorial actually showing you how to cover buttons.
First cut an appropriate size circle out of your fabric. Dritz now makes it easier to get the correct size by including a pattern on the back of their package. I was relieved when I saw this feature, since getting the exact size circle without any extra fabric was always a little tricky for me; excess fabric make it difficult to snap the two button parts together, while too small of a circle means that the fabric can pull out.
Fabric circle, button parts, mold and pushing tool.
Now place the fabric circle right side down in the mold, being careful to center it. Place the button top, face down into the mold on top of the fabric, being careful that the fabric is even all around the edge. You may need to use the pusher. Fold the fabric neatly down into the back of the button top.
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Pushing fabric into mold.
Next place the button back on the button, making sure that all the fabric is underneath it. Using the pusher, push the two parts together. They should quickly snap together, unless the fabric is rather thick. Some fabrics are too thick to use this way.
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Books on Making Children’s Clothes
Kids are so fun to sew for. Patterns from the standard pattern companies can make great children’s clothes, but many books offer helpful tips and a variety of patterns.
Here are group of books on sewing for children, which include patterns to cut out.
Making Children’s Clothes: 25 Stylish Step-by-step Sewing Projects for 0-5 Years by Emma Hardy
Absolutely A-Line: 1 Easy Pattern = 26 Adorable Dresses for Girls by Wendi Gratz
Sewing Clothes Kids Love: Sewing Patterns and Instructions for Boys’ and Girls’ Outfits by Nancy Langdon and Sabine Pollehn.
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Wedding Veils
This lovely bride wears an easy to make veil, attached to a comb.
Wedding veils can be very expensive to buy ready-made. It is actually quite simple to make one of your own and you may find you like your own design better than something off the rack.
Wedding veils can be made with tulle, organza, or lace. They are generally attached to a comb, but you can also attach them to a headband. If you are making a little girl’s Communion veil rather than a wedding veil, a headband is the way to go.
There are five standard lengths of wedding veils:
Blusher or shoulder-length—18 to 24 inches long
Waist-length—about 30 inches
Fingertip—40 inches long
Chapel (reaching to the floor)—60 to 72 inches depending on your height
Cathedral (forms a flowing train)—108 inches or more
In my next post I’ll have directions for making a wedding veil
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Fabric Glossary to Help you with your Upholstery Project
Along with color and pattern it is equally important to choose fabric with the proper weight, weave and durability for your home decor project. This list offers a brief description of some popular fabrics that will help you make an informed decision.
- Batik is a cotton cloth that has been dyed using the batik methof of creating wax designs, dipping the fabric into a vegetable dye and removing the wax to expose the pattern. Offers a very bohemian or ethnic look to a room and good for use in throw pillows, bedding and window treatments.
- Brocade is a heavy woven fabric featuring a raised pattern that resembles embroidery. This fabric offers a more formal look to a room and is suitable for use in upholstery and draperies and cornices.
- Canvas is a tightly woven, heavy cotton fabric that is commonly found in solid colors. It is similar in feel to twill or duck and is very durable and easy to maintain. A nice choice for upholstery that receives a lot of use, boat awnings, outdoor furniture etc.
- Cashmere is a luxurious wool fabric that comes from the cashmere goats found in Tibet (hence the name). Due to the expense it is not often used in upholstery projects but would certainly be suitable for a wonderful throw on the back of the sofa or at the foot of the bed.
- Crepe is a very soft and sheer fabric with a crinkly appearance and can be made from silk, wool or cotton. This ethereal fabric makes lovely window treatments, table coverings or even as an overlay to a bedskirt.
- Damask is a medium weight fabric that is often found in linen, silk or wool and is a popular choice for formal draperies or upholstery.
- Denim is a heavy cotton fabric that we are all familiar with when it comes to clothing. However, it’s durability makes it a good choice for casual seating, youthful window treatments, table linens etc.
- Shantung (dupioni) is a silk fabric that can have a matte finish. What makes this fabric unique are the “slubs” that add texture to the fabric. Makes exquisite draperies, tablecloths or bedding.
- Suede- real suede is a brushed leather product. Faux suede looks and feels like the real thing but is often lighter in weight and more affordable. This is a durable product that can be used in most home decor projects.
- Tapestry is a heavy weight woven fabric that is most often used in wall hangings but can also be used to upholster a side chair, cover cornice boxes or create accent pillows.
- Wool comes from the wool of a sheep and is a very durable fabric used in the making of clothing, carpeting and upholstery. Different blends produce different levels of durablity and softeness.
Fabrics like nylon, polyester, vinyl and rayon are made from synthetic fibers that usually result in a durable, easy to care for material. A fabric that is a blend of a natural and a synthetic fiber is often the best choice for color and durability.
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Tips for Sewing Chiffon
Silk or polyester chiffon makes delightful blouses and lovely lightweight jackets when just a little cover-up is wanted. Chiffon can be difficult to sew because it is so lightweight and can be easily pulled into the throat hole of the sewing machine. Wait until you have developed some basic skills before tackling a chiffon garment.
Follow these tips when sewing chiffon:
Before cutting your fabric, dry-clean or steam silk chiffon, unless it says it can be washed. Test press a small scrape before steaming or pressing because chiffon is easily damaged by heat. Pre-wash polyester chiffon.
Use a size 8-10 machine needle.
Use a wide straight stitch foot or roller foot. Use a small hole throat plate if you have one; you can improvise by placing a piece of tape on each side of the hole to make it smaller, being careful to avoid the feed dogs.
Use lightly balanced tension and a stitch length of 2-2.5 mm. Test your tension and stitch length on a scrape of fabric before sewing the garment.
You may want to sandwich chiffon seams. Do this by positioning the seams to be sewn and then pinning strips of water soluble stabilizer on each side. Stitch and then lightly steam to remove the stabilizer. Before using this technique be sure to test a scrape of your fabric for heat sensitivity; you don’t want to sew stabilizer in place and then ruin the garment by subjecting it too high of heat while dissolving your stabilizer.
Shorten stitch length around curves. Don’t backstitch on chiffon; use knots.
Use serged, hand overcast, or bound seam finishes. Hand sewn French seams are a nice.
Finish edges with facings or bindings.
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Tips for Sewing Linen
Handkerchief linen is easy for beginners to sew; heavier weights are easy once you have developed a little skill. Linen has a tendency to ravel and so your seams must be finished. It also wrinkles easily. Despite these drawbacks, linen is great for spring clothes. It is classic and yet comes in a variety of fresh colors. It is cool and comfortable and can be dressy or casual.
Follow these steps when working with linen:
If you are going to wash your garment, pre-wash the fabric and dry it before you cut it out. If you plan on having the garment dry-cleaned, then pre-treat the fabric by having it dry-cleaned or by steam pressing it.
Use a machine needle between size 10 and size 14, depending on the weight of the linen.
Set the machine stitch length at 2.5-3mm. Lightly balance the tension. Test stitch length and tension on a scrape of linen before beginning.
Use lightweight or all purpose thread.
Use safety pins to mark the right side of your fabric when laying it out.
Do not use erasable pens to mark linen; it can be easily damaged by these and by colored chalk and wax. White chalk, pins, and clipping the fabric are good ways to mark linen.
Finish seams by pinking the edges or binding them. Pinking is easiest for beginners. It is less time consuming than most methods and it is a classic finish. You can also serge linen seams, which is a quick method for casual garments if you are used to using the serger.
Linen is not easy to ease, so choose a pattern that requires little easing. Shrink and shape the sleeve caps by steam pressing before setting the sleeves into the garment.
Topstitching works well on linen. Linen is also great for machine embroidery.
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Spring Fabrics
Spring Fabrics
Spring fabrics are wonderful to work with. From classic linens to silk chiffons, the fabrics of spring are a delight to look at and to feel. Make a skirt suit or a pants suit out of a lovely neutral linen or a delightful fuchsia, kiwi, jade, aqua, persimmon, or pistachio linen.
Sew a woman’s blouse or lovely lightweight jacket out of a silk chiffon. Try eyelet for a change of pace. Today’s eyelets come in wide variety of designs and some delightful colors, including aqua, turquoise, baby blue, pink, lime, bright yellow, brown and black.
Eyelet makes sweet little girl’s dresses too. It is also great for curtains, bed ruffles, bedspreads, pillow cases and other home décor items. Hem a long rectangle of eyelet on all four sides and you have a pretty dresser scarf or table runner.
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